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Jul 19, 2023How can I pinpoint the source of Honda's TPMS warnings?
A few weeks back, while on the highway, the front passenger-side tire got a flat. AAA replaced it with the spare tire.
The next day when we visited the tire store, a nail was found. They did patchwork on it. I thought the tire pressure light might have been due to the nail and leaking air, but the TPMS light still comes back on.
I have been to another tire shop a couple of times, but their scanner shows everything is fine. Of course, while I'm driving to the tire shop, the TPMS light never comes on. The mechanic tells me to keep driving and when the TPMS light comes on to bring it there to scan again so they can find out which tire's TPMS is not working.
Is there is any other way to find out which TPMS isn't working? Is it safe to drive, even though the TPMS light is on?
A: More than likely, the individual wheel sensors are at the end of their useful life. The typical life of a battery-powered tire pressure sensor is seven to 10 years.
While you're driving around town on short trips, the sensor batteries are probably sufficient. But after a couple of hours of highway driving, the sensors fail to transmit and the TPMS light illuminates, indicating a malfunction with the system.
Until the car is diagnosed and repaired, check the tire pressure with a tire gauge at least once a month.
Q: My 2010 Toyota Highlander hybrid makes clunking sounds when I'm driving over potholes or badly paved streets. I took it to the dealer last year. They changed the front shock absorbers, but the noise is still there. Could it be a bad intermediate steering shaft?
A: The intermediate steering shaft was a problem on many Toyota Highlanders and is certainly worth looking into.
Depending on how the front struts were replaced — complete assemblies with the springs, or just the cartridges — the strut bearings (a reused part of the original struts) could be worn.
Q: I have a 2003 Toyota Camry with the "check engine" light on. A code reader shows codes PO430 and PO420. How should I proceed?
A: These codes typically lead to the catalytic converter replacement. The codes show (providing there are no other leaks) that the converter efficiency is not where it should be.
If you do a fair amount of DIY repairs, you might want to consider a scan tool rather than just a code reader. I recently have been using a scan tool by Innova, and what's nice is that once the codes are read, you can connect to their website Repair Solutions2. This website lists probable causes, recall information, technical bulletins and even the ability to order parts.
Q: I am planning to do some maintenance on my car, a 1977 Plymouth Fury powered by a 318-cubic-inch engine. One of the things I am planning is to redo the hard fuel line — from the fuel pump to the carburetor — so I can relocate the fuel filter to the top of the engine from its factory location down by the fuel pump.
Is there any advantage or disadvantage to use the metal filter or the clear plastic one other than being able to see the fuel in the filter?
A: There really isn’t any difference in the filters, but I do like the Wix-style see-through filter. I like to see if there is debris in the filter, which can tell a bit of a story about the condition of the fuel tank and the lines and, in some cases, if there is water in the fuel.
When relocating the fuel filter, keep it away from the hottest areas of the engine to prevent fuel vapor lock.
Q: Recently, I have been seeing news stories about Tesla vehicles hitting everything from buildings to fire trucks. Are these cars safe?
A: Tesla vehicles are as safe as any other vehicle. The issue, as I see it, is that the self-driving (Autopilot) system works great — until it doesn’t.
It's possible there is an issue with the Autopilot system getting confused with emergency lights and the chevron markings on the back of fire apparatus.
So far, and I will continue to feel this way until I’m proven wrong, as good as advanced driver-assistance features are and may be in the near future, they are not a replacement for a fully engaged driver.
John Paul is the AAA Northeast Car Doctor. He has more than 40 years of experience in the automobile industry and is an ASE-Certified Master Technician. Write to John Paul, The Car Doctor, at 110 Royal Little Drive, Providence, RI 02904. Or email [email protected] and put “Car Doctor” in the subject field. Follow him on Twitter @johnfpaul or on Facebook.
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